Dramatic and foolproof, this dish is made for entertaining. Cover the grill while cooking and you won't need to stress over flipping the fish--and the results will be perfect all the way through.

Vegetable oil, for brushing

1 skin-on side wild salmon (about 1 1/2 pounds and 1 inch thick)

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

1 lemon, cut into rounds

Fennel fronds (optional)

Fennel-Olive Relish

Heat grill to medium; brush grates with vegetable oil. Drizzle both sides of salmon with olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Place salmon on grill, skin-side down, and cover. Grill, without moving fish, until just opaque in center and skin is crisp, 7 to 9 minutes. Using 2 spatulas, transfer fish to a platter. Drizzle lemon rounds with olive oil; grill until lightly charred, about 2 minutes a side. Transfer to platter; sprinkle with fennel fronds. Serve, with relish.